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Terroir Tours - September 2023

Terroir Tours - September 2023

September 13, 2023

Québécois

Montreal - July 2023

I was in Montreal recently with my wife and another couple. The four of us decided to take a break from the southern summer heat and fly north for a taste of Québécois. We had a blast and I’d recommend this wonderful city to any curious traveler. In summer, of course…

The bar and restaurant scenes were casually sophisticated, the metro was efficient, street art was cool and the people were kind and welcoming.

When I get to know a big city, one of my favorite things to do is find a big food market. Marché Atwater is one of the most impressive markets I’ve explored. Part farmers market, part specialty foods like cheese and seafood. But the selection of prepared foods using traditional french techniques blew my mind. Rillettes, pates, mousse, tarines ... charcuteries, confits, cured and smoked meats. I would consider moving to the neighborhood simply to have daily access to the selection of high quality produce. The four of us wandered off in separate directions. Once we convened, we had gathered a smorgasbord of delicious items, perfect for a picnic on the canal.

After a fabulous lunch of caviar, pate, aged prosciutto, local cider, a fresh baguette and the stinkiest goat's cheese I’ve ever had, we took the metro across town to Jardin Botanique de Montréal. We spent the afternoon strolling through the tranquil bonsai trees in the Japanese Garden and learned about the principles of yin and yang in the Chinese Garden, which showcases designs from the 14th to 17th century Ming Dynasty. The grounds are huge and covered with not only a gorgeous variety of florals but also a variety of edible plants, toxic plants and medicinal plants. In July, there are ackers of lilies in full bloom! This is a must do in Montreal!

Of all the epic meals we had on this trip, my favorite was at a place called Joe Beef in the neighborhood known as Little Burgundy (AOC). They specialize in ambitious but unfussy French cooking—no white tablecloths, no minimalist dishes sprinkled with microgreens or gold leaf. The restaurant has the feel of a ragtag bistro, with vintage furniture and stuffed animal heads mounted on the walls. The menu, written on chalkboards, in French, is defined by exuberant immoderation, a blend of the haute and the gluttonous. On a given night, it might include a traditional foie-gras torchon or tartare of raw horsemeat; and a hulking strip steak smothered in au poivre—a Québécois staple—or fat links of boudin noir.

Each morning I checked our spreadsheet for the day's activities and menus. I had an awesome time and loved Montreal! By the end of our trip we had seen a lot, had a great adventure and we’re ready for the relatively short trip home. Then, the real adventure began.

By the time we reached the hotel lobby, checked out and met our friends, we all got the same text alert.

YOUR FLIGHT HAS BEEN CANCELED

Ok, now what do we do?

Step One - Check to see if you booked your flights with a credit card that offers travel insurance. We ALWAYS recommend our guests purchase or use a card that offers travel insurance when booking trips with Terroir Tours. Unfortunately for us, I booked with points so our options were limited.

Step Two - Transfer Chase Ultimate Rewards Points to World of Hyatt, and book another night's stay. Those of us that play the points game know, there’s often no better value for points hotels than transferring points from your rewards program to World of Hyatt to book your stay. This one only cost me 12,500 points.

Step Three - Break out the spreadsheet, where are we having dinner?

After a bonus day and night in Montreal, we say our goodbyes to our friends, who are now booked on a different return flight home. I had a very engaging conversation with our Uber driver en route to Montréal-Trudeau and (thanks to Global Entry) zipped straight through US customs before boarding our flight to La Guardia… Where we spent the next 6 hours being delayed and asked to change gates. Fortunately, I had wifi, work to do and a selection of movies in my Netflix que. Then, I noticed a familiar face in the crowd, a friend from Greensboro, also waylaid in NYC. At 10:35 pm we got the dreaded text that our 90 minute flight to Greensboro

HAS BEEN CANCELED

Once again, not much we can do.

Step One - Be nice, the agents can help you.

I got in line to speak to an agent about rebooking, so did everyone else. The atmosphere was very tense. No flights to GSO until two days later. Nothing to Charlotte or Raleigh until tomorrow late afternoon, likely could be canceled. So, I asked the agent about Asheville. There was a flight leaving at 9am.

Step Two - Find a Hyatt nearby.

Lauren was online, looking for the nearest Hyatt. Prices were serging in the city as so many flights were being canceled and it was now the weekend. Fortunately, she found one nearby the airport in Queens. 12,500 points and the Uber ride was only $25. Not too painful.

As we approached our hotel for the evening, I noticed the vibe in the neighborhood and the sign on the restaurant in front of us, xiao long bao. We were in Chinatown! After a quick check in, we headed back out onto the streets. Now on our second “bonus day” of vacation, tired and hungry but the energy in New York is irresistible so we took a short walk then grabbed a dozen chinese steamed dumplings and a few cold Tsingtao.

The next morning, the three stranded travelers finally return to North Carolina with one obstacle still in our path. Fortunately, we have incredible friends and after following our adventures over the past few days, our buddies that we had originally set out with, insisted on driving to pick us up, got us back home to Greensboro and completed the circle.

For Travelers, the adventure is always part of the fun. Although our flight home was diverted, delayed and ultimately canceled (I visited NYC and Asheville without having a proper meal!), we knew our options and we had a plan B. We stayed positive, never panicked and made the best of our situation.

My Travels to St.-Amour, Part I

by Rebecca Cochran

Saturday, July 17, 1999

After a few days in Paris visiting with friends, I checked out of my hotel in the Latin Quartier and hoofed it to the train station, Gare de Lyon, to board the TGV. The trip was smooth and comfortable (even in 2nd class) all the way to Dijon, a 2-1/4 hour trip (at 160 mph). With a short layover in Dijon, I then changed to a local train to St.-Amour. It was older and slower, but still comfortable (and nearly empty).

I arrived in St.-Amour, Jura at 2:20 p.m. Of course, Hôtel de la Gare was just around the corner from the train station. As I approached the old, charming, pink building, I immediately noticed that all of the café tables on the terrace were full. The food must be good! My room is small, but with huge windows overlooking the innkeeper’s garden.

The village is just like I imagined, only larger and bustling. It is reminiscent of St. George’s on Bermuda — lots of stone, red tile roofs, winding alleyways, flowers and outdoor cafés.

I first walked to the Eglisé de St.-Amour to admire its imposing tower and steeple.

I then headed to La Chevalerie, the hall on Rue Marcel Moyse, where our flute masterclass* will take place.

Behind the hall is a lovely park, shady, with benches, where I can soak in the view from St.-Amour’s highest point. It is beautiful. People are even playing pétanque.

* I am here to take part in the 1st St.-Amour International Flute Masterclass hosted by my long-time teacher and mentor, Louis Moyse. His father, Marcel Moyse, also a world-renowned flutist, was born in St.-Amour. Louis grew up here, as well. The family fled to America immediately following WWII. It’s hard to believe, but this is Louis’ first time back since the war!

Sunday, July 18, 1999

After a good night’s sleep, I enjoyed a typical French breakfast at the Hôtel. Madame served a fine café crème, croissants and jam — yum!

Our class participants include 7 American, 2 Swiss, 4 Italian and 4 Japanese flutists. After a week of coaching sessions and rehearsals, we will perform here for the public on Friday and Saturday nights.

Lunch following our morning class session was served en famille at a long table in a charming room with lovely curtains and tablecloths. Lé menu consisted of:

Tuna/Vegetable/Rice Salad

Charcuterie

Baked Chicken with French Green Beans (very delicate)

Three Cheeses (bleu, brie and a local chevré)

Bread and condiments

Local Beaujolais wine

Cassis glacé (for dessert)

Monday, July 19, 1999

Immediately following today’s class, Mr. and Mrs. Moyse invited several of us on a drive in their rented Peugot through the countryside surrounding St.-Amour. We admired several beautiful old churches, vestiges of an ancient Roman road and viaduct, and several quaint, little villages. We stopped in the village of L'Aubépin to retrieve the key from the village caretaker to visit the tiny, old chapel where they were married. We then drove on and stopped at several panoramic overlooks to view the Jura Mountains, Mt. Blanc and the valley of Bourg-en-Bresse.

Upon arriving back in St-Amour, we stopped for a light dinner at an outdoor café. A thunderstorm blew in later, so we all fled into the café for another glass of Beaujolais – but, of course!

Tuesday, July 20, 1999

This morning, I happened to pick up a copy of Le Progress newspaper on my walk to La Chevalerie for a warm-up session and rehearsal.

The alarming and placating front-page headlines included:

“Lance Armstrong is slated to win the 86th Tour de France.”

“JFK Jr.’s body is found at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean, following a plane crash off Martha’s Vineyard.”

“Louis Moyse to present a concert on Saturday in St.-Amour”.

Sunday, July 25, 1999

Our two concerts were well-attended last night and the night before. The Mayor of St.-Amour made a wonderful introduction on Louis and the class to the audience last evening. A glowing man in a bright yellow sport coat, he was extremely well spoken! Afterwards, he hosted a reception for all of us, serving both a Beaujolais Blanc and Moulin-à-Vent, as he said, “The Lord of Beaujolais wines!”

This morning, we said a lot of “good-byes” at breakfast. Many are leaving St.-Amour today. I, however, purposely built in time for more explorations before I head back to Paris tomorrow.

I spent the day walking the outskirts of St.-Amour, enjoying the warm, dry weather. I saw fields of thousands and thousands of sunflowers — what a sight to behold! I came across a little burro tied up to a tree and I even discovered a beautiful, small, family vineyard behind someone’s home!

I can’t wait to visit St.-Amour again!

*Hand-drawn map by Louis Moyse

From the Archives

24 September 2020

For years, customers have asked me for advice when traveling to wine country. ‘Where should I go?, where do we stay? Ultimately, I would spend a lot of time curating the trips. Lauren helped put things in focus and suggested that I should consider getting paid to do this.

In 2014 we developed Terroir Tours, a boutique travel company specializing in gourmet food and wine adventures, in both the U.S. and abroad. Traveling by private coach, we visit small family wineries as well as world-class restaurants, all surrounded by some of the most scenic property in the world.

This time of year, my bags are typically packed and we’re preparing for a trip to wine country. In Napa Valley, it’s time for harvest. The leaves on the vines begin to change color and the smell of fermentation is in the air. It’s my favorite time to visit.

To begin, our chariot awaits at SFO. After collecting our bags, we’re quickly whisked away, through the city, by the bay, across the Golden Gate, and then down to Sausalito. A grilled halibut collar and a local pilsner served on the pier in a relaxed seaside town, with a perfectly distant view of San Francisco.

After enjoying a proper welcome, we’re off to the main attraction - downtown Napa. With bakeries, restaurants, shops and bars, I truly believe you’d be happy with a long weekend in this area alone. Hiking, biking and hot air balloon rides. However, it would be a shame to miss the opportunity to taste, at the source, some of the best wine California has to offer. Chappellet, Signorello, Far Niente...

Each morning, our driver collects us from our hotel and we go on tour. From Oak Knoll to Calistoga - Biale to Frank Family. The 75 degree days are exactly what I need coming out of the southern summer heat and humidity. Our driver turns up the music in our Mercedes Sprinter Van and I feel like a musician on tour - Willie Nelson in Napa Valley!

Together, we visit the classics that made the valley world-famous and also introduce wineries that you might not be familiar with. While on tour, we also take as much care in selecting restaurants as we do wineries. From a road-side refresher to a Michelin 3-star dining experience of a lifetime.

Each time we go back, I eat more, I learn more and it never gets old - and I’ve realized, it’s because of the people that we met and the friends we make. That’s always the best part and it’s what I miss the most.

We can’t be there this year but like I always tell the folks in California, ‘I’ll be back, and I’m bringing my friends!’

I just can’t wait to get on the road again…..!